How To Correctly Prepare Vehicle For Ceramic Coating! – Chemical Guys

How To Correctly Prepare Vehicle For Ceramic Coating! – Chemical Guys


– Hey, what’s up guys? Welcome back to “Chemical
Guys Detail Garage.” In this episode, I am
going to show you guys how to properly prep your
surface of your vehicle before applying HydroCharge
Ceramic Spray Coating. (logo reverberating) To begin this process, I already
have EcoSmart in my hand, so simply, I’m gonna go
and pump up the atomizer. Spray the surface. The reason why I am cleaning the surface is to remove any loose grime or debris that might be sitting on the surface, because I actually don’t
wanna be rubbing in any contamination, or
sealing any contamination into the pores of the paint. Wipe in one direction. Remember guys, as you guys
are wiping in one direction, always be sure to be rolling your wrist, to always have a clean edge touching the paint of your vehicle. Wiping it. The cool thing I like about EcoSmart it’s you could use it basically anywhere. Especially, right now, in California, it’s windy, it’s dusty,
it’s too cold outside to be wash your vehicle. I’m sorry guys, sorry East Coast, it’s too cold for me. So simply go ahead and dry it up, or buff off any residue. And now that I have a clean surface, it’s time to go ahead and clay bar the surface of the vehicle. Clay barring the surface of the vehicle is actually gonna go and help me remove any contamination that might be sitting on the surface of the vehicle, or any contamination that might be in the pores of the vehicle. When I come close to the paint I could actually see that there’s a lot of swirl marks,
so I do actually have to polish out the surface to remove those, but before you polish, we always recommend
removing any contamination so you actually won’t be
rubbing the contamination into the surface of the vehicle, which can cause more scratches or swirls. How I need it on my clay bar, simply spray the surface of the vehicle that I’ll be working on. I’ll spray on my clay bar as well. And I’ll just glide it side to side. No pressure’s applied, just
simply rub side to side. As you go, remember guys,
always be flipping it to a clean side, after a panel. And what clay bar does
is basically clean out the pores of the paint
to remove contamination that might be sitting on the surface so you won’t be rubbing it in
during your polishing step. So now that I did that part, if you actually could see this, the clay actually turned brown. The reason why it turned brown is all that contamination that the paint has. So simply flip it to a new side. Do the same exact thing. Spray it on to the surface. (garage doors shuddering) Excuse the noise guys, it’s actually very windy outside right now. (upbeat music) I actually went ahead and clay barred the surface of the vehicle
that I’m working on. I’m actually going to go and wipe it down, and I’m actually gonna check the surface of the vehicle, if it’s fully clayed. If you still hear some
roughness on the paint, go back with your clay bar and simply do the same exact thing. Spray the clay lubricant,
glide the clay bar over. You always want to achieve a smooth like finish before polishing. So I wanna clean to clean side, remove any residue that the
clay lubricant left behind. And just by clay barring,
I’ve opened the pores of the paint, and I can
see this paint actually has water spots, has a lot
of scratches and swirls that need to be polished out before you ceramic coat your vehicle to ensure you are not coating all those scratches and swirls. So now, I go ahead and get my hand, and just simply, just touch it gently, just to check the surface,
if it’s fully clayed. Now we’re back, guys. I got my TORQ 15DA, my Orange Medium Hex Cutting Pad, my V36. The reason why I chose
V36 in this occasion is because we recommend starting off with a much lighter
cut than a heavier cut, because remember guys,
paint cannot grow back. So I’m gonna start off with V36, check out the cut that it’s
actually gonna give me, if I like it, I’ll continue, if I don’t like it, I’ll drop down to V34. So I go ahead. Apply five dime-sized drops to my pad. I’ll get some pad conditioner. Spray the pad two times to
reduce friction on to the paint. Put the cord over my shoulder. I’ll go and dab it out. And on speed setting one, I’ll go ahead and spread out the product. On speed setting six, I’ll actually work in the product till it turns translucent or clear. So simply turn on the machine, (orbital buffer turning on)
speed setting one. (orbital buffer turning off) So now that the product
has been spread out, just like I said, turn it
up to speed setting six to work in the product till
it turns clear or translucent. (upbeat music) (orbital buffer turning off) So now that I actually worked the product in till it turns clear or translucent, I like the cut it’s giving me, I’ll go ahead and give it a quick buff, and I see a night and
day difference between this side of the paint
compared to this side. So I’m gonna go ahead and polish out this whole side of the hood, and I’ll get back to you guys so I can show you guys how
to properly apply HydroCharge to the surface of the paint. (upbeat music) So now it’s time to apply HydroCharge. What you wanna simply do,
is shake up the bottle, give it one, two, three sprays. Put that back there. And go in linear motions. All the way down, to all the way up. Remember guys, HydroCharge
can only be applied on painted surfaces, do
not apply it on glass, do not apply it on trim,
only painted surfaces. And the reason why I
overlap the last pass I did, is to give it an even
coverage of the surface. We recommend letting HydroCharge bond to the surface, anywhere from 30 seconds to two minutes, it all depends on the temperature you’re
actually working it in. If it’s super hot, let
it sit for 30 seconds, if it’s a little bit colder in your area, go ahead and apply it, and let it sit up to two minutes. It is a little bit on
the colder side today, here in California, it is windy, so I’ll let it sit anywhere
for 30 seconds to two minutes. And once I am done doing this entire pass, I’ll go ahead and get
this over here as well. And now I’ll go in the opposite direction to do a cross-hatching pattern, to get even coverage around
the whole entire paint. Remember guys, a little
bit goes a long way. Do not apply too much. With those three sprays I
coated half of the hood, and that’s more than enough. So now I’ll go and put this down. I’ll let it sit on the
surface for a bit longer. And now it’s gonna be time to buff it off. So simply get a clean microfiber towel. Buff it off in one direction. And it comes off with little to no ease. Simply we go ahead and buff it off, side to side, with a
clean microfiber towel. And we recommend keeping it out of the harsh elements, anywhere
from up to three hours, over 24 hours the hydrophobic properties will actually enhance. So we’re actually gonna go and remove it, I wanna come back three hours later and show you guys to
hydrophobic properties, outside in the bay, to
show you guys the results that this gave this hood. And we’ll see you guys in a bit. – [Male Voice] Three hours later. – And we’re back, it’s three hours later, HydroCharge has fully
cured onto the surface. Now I’m gonna show you guys
the hydrophobic properties that it delivered. So now he’s actually gonna head out to Vegas on a business trip. We’re gonna check back with you guys, four days later, to show you guys the hydrophobic properties of HydroCharge. – [Male Voice] Day four. – Hey what’s up guys? It’s four days later. We’re gonna show you guys that HydroCharge is still hydrophobic. This car just came back from Vegas. The water beads on the left-hand side, which is your right-hand
side, are very tight. This car has water spots,
dirt, grime and debris, but I’m gonna show you guys by just simply spraying down the surface that the hydrophobic
properties of HydroCharge are still running strong. So simply, I’m gonna
go and turn the nozzle, get into a nice fan motion, and I will go and wet the vehicle. As you guys can see, the left-hand side is actually, the water’s still dragging, it’s not hydrophobic whatsoever, compared to the right-hand side, it’s still holding up strong. So this is why we recommend
you guys ceramic coating your vehicle, it’s gonna
make washing easier, your water’s not gonna drag, it’s not gonna collect water spots. Compared to this side, if
dirt still lands on it, or any contamination lands on it, it’s gonna stick on there,
it’s not gonna be good for your vehicle. Compared to the right-hand side, the beads are simply gonna
be able to wash away. I’ll be right back, let me go get a towel just so that I could show you guys. And I’m back with my towel. So I’m gonna show you guys how easy it is to dry your vehicle whenever you have your car ceramic coated. So simply, I’ll go to the surface, I’ll pat it down, and I’ll wipe in one direction. Compared to the untreated side, I go and come to this side, and if I go do the same exact method, and I drag, the water does not dry, it just simply drags. So this is why we recommend
ceramic coating your vehicle, to make washing easier, drying easier, and your cars gonna be protected
from the harsh elements. There you guys have it. This is why we recommend
ceramic coating your vehicle, to protect it from the harsh elements, make washing easier. If you guys like this video, don’t forget, like it, comment, and subscribe. And we’ll see you guys next time, right here, at the “Chemical
Guys Detail Garage.” (white noise) (downbeat music)